The little village on the crest
of the hill in the distance, to the left of the church, as shown on
the preceding page, is called the Colma di S. Giovanni, and is well
worth a visit. In spring, before the grass is cut, the pastures
must be even better than when I saw them in August, and they were
then still of almost incredible beauty.
I went to S. Giovanni by the directest way--descending, that is, to
the level of the Stura, crossing it, and then going straight up the
mountain. I returned by a slight detour so as to take the village
of Fucine, a frazione of Viu a little higher up the river. I found
many picturesque bits; among them the one which I give on the next
page. It was a grand festa; first they had had mass, then there
had been the funzioni, which I never quite understand, and
thenceforth till sundown there was a public ball on the bowling
ground of a little inn on the Viu side of the bridge. The
principal inn is on the other side. It was here I went and ordered
dinner. The landlady brought me a minestra, or hodge-podge soup,
full of savoury vegetables, and very good; a nice cutlet fried in
bread-crumbs, bread and butter ad libitum, and half a bottle of
excellent wine. She brought all together on a tray, and put them
down on the table. "It'll come to a franc," said she, "in all, but
please to pay first." I did so, of course, and she was satisfied.
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